March Gardening: How To Refresh Your Garden in Early Spring?

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March is when everything changes, isn’t it? Even if there’s still snow on the ground, you can feel spring coming. The air smells different, birds are louder, and suddenly I’m spending every spare minute outside.

This month brings the official start of spring, at least on the calendar. Nature doesn’t always follow that schedule, though. Some regions are already warm and blooming, while others are still frozen solid.

Regardless of your climate, March is busy. There’s actual planting happening now, not just planning and dreaming. I’ve been researching what needs attention this month, and honestly, the list is long.

Let me share what I’ve discovered about tackling March in the garden.

Seed Starting Reaches Peak Time

March is absolutely the busiest month for indoor seed starting. Your seed trays are multiplying like rabbits. Seriously, where did all these plants come from?

Start your brassicas now if you haven’t already. Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts all go in this month. They’ll be ready to transplant outside in four to six weeks.

Annual flowers should be started in March too. Zinnias, cosmos, marigolds, and sunflowers all germinate easily. These add colour and attract pollinators to your garden later.

Some herbs can still be started indoors. Basil is the big one, though it’s sensitive to cold. Cilantro, dill, and parsley also work well from seed.

Check on the seedlings you started earlier. They might need to be transplanted into larger containers. When roots start coming through drainage holes, it’s definitely time. This process is called “potting up.”

Fertilise established seedlings with diluted liquid fertiliser. They’ve used up the nutrients in seed starting mix by now. Half-strength fish emulsion works great for this purpose.

Thin overcrowded seedlings, even though it feels wasteful. Overcrowding leads to weak, spindly plants. I use scissors to snip extras rather than pulling them. The University of Maryland Extension provides detailed information on seedling care.

Direct Sowing Cool-Season Crops

In many areas, direct sowing outside can begin in March. This depends entirely on your climate, though. Check soil temperature before planting anything.

Peas should go in as soon as the soil is workable. They tolerate cold and actually prefer it. Install trellises or supports before planting so you don’t disturb roots later.

Lettuce, spinach, arugula, and other greens thrive in cool weather. Plant them in succession every two weeks. Otherwise, everything matures at once, and you can’t eat it all.

Root vegetables like carrots, beets, radishes, and turnips can be direct-sown now. Radishes are especially fast, often ready in just three weeks. They’re great for marking rows of slower-germinating seeds.

Onion sets go in the ground this month across most regions. Push them into the soil so that only the tips show. Space them properly because crowding reduces bulb size.

Potatoes can be planted in mid to late March in many areas. Use certified seed potatoes, not grocery store ones. Cut large potatoes into pieces with at least two eyes.

Broad beans and fava beans tolerate cold weather well. These fix nitrogen in the soil, which benefits other plants. Plus, they’re delicious and not widely available in stores.

Cover planted areas with row covers if frost threatens. These lightweight fabrics protect against cold while allowing light and water through. Johnny’s Selected Seeds explains different row cover options and their uses.

Transplanting Hardened-Off Seedlings

If you started brassicas and other cool-season crops early, they might be ready to transplant outside. However, hardening off is absolutely essential before this step.

Hardening off is the gradual exposure of indoor plants to outdoor conditions. Start by putting them outside for just an hour. Increase time spent outdoors by an hour or two each day.

Choose a shady, protected spot for the first few days. Full sun and wind can quickly damage tender seedlings. Work up to full sun over a week or so.

Bring plants inside if temperatures drop below 40°F. Even cold-hardy plants need a gentle transition from cosy indoor life. Rushing this process causes significant transplant shock.

When plants are hardened off, transplant on a cloudy day if possible. This reduces stress from the sun and heat. Water thoroughly before and after transplanting.

Space plants according to their mature size. Crowding leads to poor air circulation and disease problems. I always plant things too close together and regret it later.

Use starter fertiliser when transplanting to reduce shock. A bit of diluted fish emulsion or compost tea helps plants establish. Water consistently until you see new growth.

Preparing and Amending Soil

March is the prime time for final soil preparation before the main planting season. As soon as the soil is dry enough to work, get out there. Working wet soil causes compaction that lasts all season.

Test soil moisture by squeezing a handful. If it forms a muddy ball, wait. If it crumbles easily, you’re good to go. Patience now saves problems later.

Add compost, well-rotted manure, or other organic matter to beds. Work it into the top six to eight inches. This improves drainage, water retention, and fertility simultaneously.

Consider adding specific amendments based on soil test results. Bone meal adds phosphorus, blood meal adds nitrogen, and greensand provides potassium. Organic amendments release nutrients slowly over time.

Work the soil with a fork or tiller until it’s loose and crumbly. Break up large clods and remove rocks and debris. Good soil tilth makes planting and root growth much easier.

Create raised rows or hills for plants that need excellent drainage. Melons, squash, and tomatoes appreciate this extra drainage. Additionally, raised soil warms faster in spring.

Apply pre-emergent mulch to suppress weeds if desired. Just make sure it won’t interfere with the seeds you’re planting. Wood chips work great for paths between beds.

Pruning and Cleanup Tasks

March is your last chance for dormant pruning in most areas. Once buds start swelling, pruning causes more stress. Therefore, tackle these jobs early in the month.

Finish pruning fruit trees if you didn’t complete it earlier. Remove water sprouts, suckers, and crossing branches. Open up the centre for better light penetration.

Cut back ornamental grasses before new growth starts. I use hedge shears or even a chainsaw for large clumps. Leave about six inches of growth above the crown.

Prune summer-blooming shrubs, such as butterfly bush and rose of Sharon. These bloom on new wood, so cutting them back encourages more flowers. Don’t worry about being too aggressive here.

Remove dead annuals and perennials from last year. Rake up leaves and debris from around plants. This cleaning significantly reduces disease and pest problems.

Edge beds to create clean lines and prevent grass invasion. A sharp spade or edging tool makes this job easier. I find this oddly satisfying, actually.

Lightly cut back evergreen herbs like rosemary, lavender, and sage. Don’t cut into old woody growth, though. Just remove the top third of the green growth. Royal Horticultural Society offers specific pruning advice for different herbs.

Dividing Perennials

Early spring is an excellent time to divide many perennials. Plants are just waking up, making this timing ideal. Division rejuvenates overgrown clumps and gives you free plants.

Hostas can be divided now before leaves fully emerge. Dig up the entire clump and split it with a spade. Each division should have several growth points.

Daylilies benefit from division every few years. They become less floriferous when too crowded. Spring division allows plants to establish before the summer heat.

Ornamental grasses divide well in early spring. Use a saw or sharp spade for tough, woody centres. These divisions can be quite large and heavy.

Divide summer and fall-blooming perennials now. Asters, sedums, and coneflowers respond well to spring division. However, avoid dividing spring bloomers until after they flower.

Water divisions thoroughly and keep them moist until established. Mulch around new plants to conserve moisture. Don’t fertilise immediately, as this can burn damaged roots.

Share extra divisions with friends and neighbours. Gardeners love free plants, and it’s a great way to build community. I’ve gotten some of my favourite plants this way.

Planting Bare Root Stock

March is the traditional month for planting bare-root trees, shrubs, and perennials. These dormant plants are cheaper than potted ones. Moreover, they often establish more quickly and effectively.

Bare-root roses arrive and should be planted immediately. Soak roots overnight before planting. Dig a wide hole and create a cone of soil for roots to spread over.

Fruit trees as bare root stock are widely available now. Apple, pear, peach, and cherry trees ship as dormant trees. Plant them before buds break for best results.

Asparagus crowns go in this month for perennial harvests. Dig trenches about six inches deep and space crowns properly. Don’t harvest the first year, though, which is hard to resist.

Strawberry plants are often sold as bare-root crowns. June-bearing varieties planted now will produce fruit next year. Ever-bearing types might give a small harvest this fall.

Inspect roots carefully before planting. Healthy roots should be firm and pliable, not mushy or dried out. Trim any damaged or dead sections.

Keep roots moist during planting. I bring a bucket of water and dip roots frequently. Exposure to air and sunlight quickly kills fine root hairs. Stark Bro’s provides detailed instructions for bare-root planting.

Lawn Care Begins

March marks the beginning of lawn maintenance for most gardeners. Cool-season grasses are waking up and starting to grow. Therefore, they need attention now.

Rake up leaves, thatch, and debris that accumulated over winter. This allows air and light to reach the soil. Additionally, it reveals bare spots needing attention.

Aerate compacted lawns if you didn’t do it last fall. Core aeration removes small soil plugs. This significantly improves water and nutrient penetration.

Overseed thin or bare areas with appropriate grass seed. Scratch up the soil first so seeds make good contact. Keep newly seeded areas consistently moist until grass establishes.

Apply corn gluten meal as a natural pre-emergent if desired. This prevents weed seeds from germinating. However, it also prevents grass seed from germinating, so don’t use it where you’re overseeding.

Wait to fertilise until the grass is actively growing. Early fertilisation can encourage weed growth more than grass growth. Mid to late spring is better for most lawns.

Consider alternatives to traditional lawns in some areas. Clover lawns, native groundcovers, or wildflower meadows require less maintenance. They also support pollinators much better than grass. The Spruce has region-specific lawn care schedules.

Dealing With Weeds

Weeds explode in March as the soil warms. Getting ahead of them now prevents major problems later. An hour of weeding now saves hours in summer.

Hand-pull weeds while they’re small and the soil is moist. They come out easily with roots intact. Waiting until they’re large makes the job much harder.

Use a hoe for larger areas with small annual weeds. Work on a dry, sunny day so weeds die quickly. Hoeing just below the soil surface is most effective.

Mulch around plants to suppress weed growth. Two to three inches of organic mulch blocks the light that weed seeds need to germinate. Wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves all work.

Deal with perennial weeds like dandelions before they flower. Dig the entire taproot if possible. Otherwise, they’ll just regrow from root fragments.

Don’t let weeds go to seed. One weed plant can produce thousands of seeds. Preventing seed production dramatically reduces future weeding work.

Consider some “weeds” as beneficial. Dandelions feed early pollinators, and chickweed is actually edible. I let some beneficial weeds grow in less visible areas.

Planning for Succession Planting

Smart succession planting extends your harvest over months instead of weeks. March is when planning this becomes really important. Otherwise, everything comes at once.

Plant fast-maturing crops like lettuce and radishes every two weeks. Small plantings mature at different times. This prevents waste and ensures a continuous supply of fresh produce.

Plan what will follow early crops when they finish. Cool-season crops will be done by early summer. Have warm-season transplants ready to fill those spaces.

Interplant fast and slow-maturing crops together. Radishes between carrots, lettuce under tomatoes, before they get big. This maximises space and productivity.

Keep succession planting records so you remember what works. I note planting dates and harvest periods. This information helps me plan better each year.

Consider growing both early and late varieties of the same crop. This naturally staggers harvest without requiring multiple plantings. For instance, early and late tomatoes extend the season.

Be realistic about what you’ll actually eat and preserve. I always plant too much and end up giving produce away. There are worse problems, though.

Attracting Beneficial Insects

As temperatures warm, insects become active again. Attracting beneficial ones helps control pests naturally. March is perfect for planting things that beneficial insects love.

Plant early-flowering perennials that provide nectar and pollen. Things like creeping phlox, basket-of-gold, and candytuft bloom now. These feed emerging beneficial insects when little else is available.

Leave some areas of bare ground for ground-nesting bees. About seventy per cent of native bees nest in soil. Mulching everything prevents them from nesting.

Create habitat for beneficial insects by planting a diverse array of plants. Different insects need different plants at different times. Variety is absolutely key here.

Install a small water source for insects. A shallow dish with pebbles provides drinking spots. Change water frequently to prevent mosquito breeding.

Avoid pesticides, even organic ones, whenever possible. They kill beneficial insects along with pests. Tolerance for some pest damage is part of sustainable gardening.

Learn to identify common beneficial insects in your area. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps all help control pests. Xerces Society provides excellent identification guides and conservation information.

March feels like the real beginning of gardening season. Planning turns into action, seeds turn into seedlings, and bare soil turns green. The next few months will be incredibly busy, but right now, everything is still full of possibility and promise.